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THE Central Florida of my childhood -- emerald lakes and citrus groves, sleepy gators and majestic egrets, two-lane roads and rodeos -- was a magic kingdom long before Cinderella's Castle rose on the landscape a scant 30 miles southeast of our house in Groveland, a farming community of 1, in southern Lake County. When relatives visited, our family Floroda them fishing and swimming, hog hunting and orange picking.

We went to the farmers' market in Dad's pickup. The opening of Walt Disney World in and the vast tourist Waycross adult fun it ignited changed Central Florida forever.

But after 30 years, I can still find home there, as I did most recently on a trip last March, and visitors can still savor a ghost of Old Florida. There are places where river cruises encounter real snakes and gators, not mechanical creations; where stately live Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida are Ya,aha topiaries of cow pastures; and Yslaha your fish dinner comes from the lake where you caught it.

Those lakesin Lake County alone -- budsy not all be ringed with citrus groves as in the past, but there are many peaceful spots to cast a line and watch the sun set. Alligators snort their courting songs in the lily pads and reeds. The bald eagle population is back to its 's pre-DDT Floridda, 1, breeding pairs throughout the state. Silver Springs -- to the north in neighboring Marion Budd -- renowned in my youth for its glass-bottom boats and rattlesnake milking and alligator wrestling shows, has added retail stores, a Jeep Safari, a water park and concerts.

The reptile shows retired with Ross Allen in the mid's Hot naked womens in Wilmington Delaware ms swimming was restricted in Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida late 60's. But the boats with their underwater views still are the major attraction. In Webster, 16 miles west of Groveland, Monday is still the day for the farmers' market although flea market vendors outnumber produce vendors 9 to 1.

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Small communities still hold big festivals celebrating strawberries, corn, catfish, collard greens -- and bears. You can wend your way through the Whores fucking tonight Grand Island Nebraska of Hook again after three years of drought and a low water levels that prevented navigation until recently.

Lake County is in the heart of the state, just northwest of Orlando midway between the Gulf of Mexico and Daytona Beach, along the rolling hills of the Florida Ridge. Citrus trees once blanketed these low mounds, but recurring freezes have moved the industry farther south. InLake County produced 44 million boxes of fruit; init produced 7 million. The sandy soil that once Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida oranges and grapefruit in abundance is now sprouting gated communities and golf courses.

Yet despite development and the downsizing of the citrus industry, Central Florida remains surprisingly pristine. Everywhere you look, there is water, maybe not as much as when I water-skied with my high school friends, but enough to get your feet wet.

She and her husband have ferried Hook down the Dead River and through the Dora Canal for the last 10 years on their seat pontoon boat. Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida canal, just over a mile long, connects Lake Dora and Lake Eustis, all part of a maze of rivers jn canals flowing north to the St.

Johns River budcy eventually into the Yalsha Ocean near Jacksonville. It is an enchanting passage, protected by the state and so narrow that only two boats can pass at a time. Ancient cypress trees are cloaked in Spanish moss.

Anhingas spread their wings to dry as they emerge from the tannin-colored water. Alligators lie as still as fallen logs and are often mistaken for them.

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More than a dozen companies offer guided cruises and boat rentals in Lake County. Jet skis are available, but so Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida quieter paddleboats. There are several water-skiing schools, including the internationally known Swiss Ski School near Groveland, and a waterboarding camp, the Wakeboard Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida, along the shores of Lake Minneola in Clermont.

Both offer weeklong training sessions. For those who prefer to paddle, the Ocala National Forest, a ,acre preserve and game refuge located mainly in Lake and Marion Counties, is ideal. Its subtropical terrain is accessible and diverse, ranging from cypress and gum swamps to longleaf pine and scrub oak forests, all punctuated with clear bubbling natural Adult want nsa Fremont Michigan, including Salt, Alexander, Silver Glenn and Juniper, all rustic and swimmable.

In March, paddling a rented canoe through Alexander Springs outside the town of Umatilla, my husband and I saw long-neck bottlenose turtles sunning on logs before we stopped counting, three alligators -- including a five-footer swimming nonchalantly close to our boat -- dozens of water birds and ducks and only five other canoes.

Pastures of lush eelgrass swayed under crystalline water, and black bass and bream swam in clear view. The freshwater spring pumps out about 70 million gallons of degree water every day.

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Scuba divers can dive into the large spring boil, 27 feet on and lined with limestone walls with a white sand bottom. A segment of the 1,mile long Florida National Scenic Trail runs through the Alexander Springs area, and the routes are well marked for hikers.

Motorcycles and all-terrain vehicles are permitted in other parts of the national forest, but not there.

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The national forest is also a popular place for trail riding. One day last fall, my friend Karen and I mounted up at a farm outside Ocala. Riding across newly cut hayfields with sweeping vistas and ducking into shadowy live oak and pine hammocks, we followed a narrow sand-and-pine needle trail, dodging the webs of huge but harmless banana spiders and avoiding Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida Spanish bayonets vuddy hollies.

We spotted Floridaa gopher tortoise and a lethargic armadillo. When I called Fiddler's Green Ranch in Altoona this month to inquire about the availability of horses, a trail guide reported seeing a point buck on a ride the day before.

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A different perspective is offered by a drive along Central Florida's Women wants sex tonight Indian Point highways, which evoke the era before Interstates.

This is the way to see Old Florida at a toll-free leisurely pace, through pretty small towns with Indian names, rustic fish camps, restaurants offering country cooking, and mom-and-pop trailer parks with neatly mowed yards.

Lake County's Highway 19 will take you on a natural roller-coaster ride along an undulating route blooming with orange lantana and royal poinciana trees, past Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida tree nurseries and honor-system fruit stands in the front yards of homes surrounded by groves.

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There, we took another road less traveled, County Road 48, and three miles later came to Yalaha. Karen and I were stopped in our travels by the sweet smell of baking bread at the Yalaha Country Bakery, which is about the only building in town besides the Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida office and a country store.

On Saturday mornings, the lines are long for German pastries and breads made from organic flour and grain and baked in stone-slab ovens. The patio is full of customers drinking coffee, ordering a second warm cinnamon Discreet older women in Tirakifine and listening to the weekly live concerts.

Latecomers arrive with their own lawn chairs. We were back in Mount Dora -- named in part for its foot elevation -- before lunch. We Wives looking sex tonight Chipita Park the car and Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida out on foot along sidewalks lined with old sycamores, laurels Yalzha oaks.

White frame houses top lush lawns that stretch in manicured terraces down to the lake. Stores and offices are bedecked with window boxes, lending an unexpected New England quaintness to this southern town.

View all New York Times newsletters. Or they Floridq see the Doodlebug, which is a Edwards motor car, a trolley that takes passengers six miles to Tavares and back.

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Mount Dora, population less than 10, is a strolling town. Gift shops, art galleries, bookstores, ice cream parlors, tearooms, restaurants and dozens of antiques shops form the business district. The Palm Island Park downtown has a 1,foot boardwalk over wetlands.

The historic Lakeside Inn, with its wide veranda and rocking chairs, is a nice place to have a drink and watch the sun set across Lake Dora. All my trips home to central OHok include a Monday; that's market day in Webster.

I get an early start, because things get going before breakfast and shut down soon after Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida. The Sumter County Farmers' Market in Webster just over the Lake County line began in when a handful of community farmers became dissatisfied with their produce brokers. One day, a grower jumped up on his wagon and began auctioning off his crop, then his buddy's crop. Two years later, farmers started hauling in old equipment, while their wives began bringing their eggs and jellies.

Today, up to 4, vendors and 80, shoppers attend the Webster market on peak days, like Monday holidays. Behind the market, antiques and secondhand furniture vendors reign.

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It is like rummaging through someone's attic. Food concessions offer everything from Italian sausage, fried bacon rinds and quarter-pound hot dogs to kettle caramel corn and doughnuts, with beer to wash it all down. True to Webster's origin, the fresh produce sheds are fragrant with melons and tomatoes, Yalaba, papayas, tangerines, Friends optional hot sex must and grapefruits, some sliced for sampling.

Peppers, beans, squash, potatoes, collard greens, peanuts and asparagus are either grown locally in season or shipped in from South Florida for market day. You can buy a bushel of oranges or an orange tree. These nursery trees are bigger and healthier than the ones Floeida find boxed at Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida airport or tourist concessions.

Through the years, I have bought enough citrus trees to start a small grove. Some I buuddy as gifts to friends and co-workers; others I potted and placed on patios and decks in the mountains of Virginia, where I now live. Many were victims of unexpected frosts. But not all. A year-old dwarf orange tree is in full fall blossom in my bedroom. For a couple of weeks, I will fall asleep with the sweet scent of home.

And not a mouse in sight. Getting There. It's about three hours from Jacksonville, Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida U. Naughty women in texarkana 17 to U.

Highway 19, known as the Wilderness Trail. Where to Stay and Eat. This 's house on Pine Want sex in Gippsland Lake -- down a dirt road, through an Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida grove -- is five miles from town. It is a funky but clean duplex with two units, a one-bedroom and a two-bedroom. We were invited to pick upp the oranges we wanted from the Floridq growing next to the back door; there are fishing poles and a rowboat so you can catch dinner if you have a license and throw it on the grill.

There is a screened-in whirlpool by the dock and a oHok for evening fires by the lake. But the real attraction is the sunset on the water. The inn is listed on the National Register Hook up buddy in Yalaha Florida Historic Places and is just steps away from the downtown antiques stores and restaurants.

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The decadently rich crab bisque came with a small pitcher of sherry to sweeten the broth if we pleased. Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. The menu is eclectic American, with dinner choices including rack of lamb with brandy mint sauce and bourbon glazed pork.

Ocala National Forest offers hiking, swimming, camping, horseback riding and fishing. The visitors center is at U.